Sunday, December 23, 2007

Holding the snakecharmer's snake!




The same snake charmer that showed up at the birthday party I attended, happened to be walking down our street today, and we called him over to give us a show! Wesley and I also had the pleasure of holding one of his snakes (a non-poisonous, non-biting one). We weren't about to hold the cobras--they are very poisonous!

At the Banani Bazar



Here's some photos Wesley took at the bazar in Banani, of fish and vegetable vendors. Salma and I are posing by the vegetables in the top photo.

Jasra and Audrey with their gifts


Here's Jasra and Audrey on Eid day, with their gifts that my mom and dad sent them! They were absolutely thrilled with their gifts!

Wesley's visit


My brother Wesley has come to visit for about 13 days, and we're having a wonderful time so far! He got here just in time for the big Corbani Eid festival, so the next morning he saw people slaughtering cows and goats in the road right outside our apartment. We celebrated Eid with Azfar's family, and had a great time. I've already taken him to the food bazar and the clothing bazar, and we've checked out the artisan crafts at Aarong. So far, we're having a great time with Wesley!

Wednesday, December 5, 2007

A Real-Live Snake Charmer!


Salma and I got the treat of seeing a snake charmer the other day! We were at a birthday party for one of Salma's buddies, when the snake charmer happened to walk by, and offered to perform for the party. It was incredible. He had three cobras in his baskets, and at one point he had all three cobras out at once, up and dancing to his flute music. A few times the cobras got closer to the snake charmer and looked like they were about to bite his knee, but he jerked his knee very fast, and they retreated. Anyway, it was quite a thrill to see!

Tuesday, November 20, 2007

Food Poisoning

So Salma got food poisoning this week! Poor girl. She vomited about 30 times between Saturday and Sunday and we had to admit her to the hospital. She stayed overnight and had a saline IV to rehydrate her. We got to go home today, and she's doing much better now. We're still not sure what she got the food poisoning from...but it was something at home. Maybe she put something in her mouth from the floor, or she got a mouthful of bad bath water or something. Anyway, we're just relieved that she's doing better now!

Sunday, November 18, 2007

Cyclone Sidr in Bangladesh




As you may have heard, a cyclone swept through Bangladesh around midnight on Friday. We're doing fine, though. It was mostly the southern districts along the coast that were most severely affected. The latest death count is around 2,000 people and countless animals killed and acres of crops destroyed. Dhaka lost electricity for 24 hours, and a number of signboards and trees fell down in the middle of the night on Friday, but as far as I know, no one in Dhaka died from the cyclone. Here's some pictures from the newspapers. In the middle photo, the man is using an elephant as a living backhoe to clear some huge trees from the road.

Monday, November 12, 2007

Salma's New Buddies





Here's some photos of Salma with her new buddies that she met in Gazipur. She had so much fun swimming with them, and playing in the park, and swinging on the swingset! All the kids wanted to swing with her, so she got plenty of swing-time. With all that attention, by night time she was totally worn out and she slept like a rock.

Swimming in the pond


We had a couple days' getaway in Gazipur, which is a district an hour north of Dhaka. We stayed in a little bungalow at a guest house. It was quiet and beautiful, and really relaxing! It was really nice to get out of town for a few days. We also went swimming in the pond in the village next to the guest house. We made lots of friends with the kids in the village, too! Here's a picture of Salma and I swimming with some of the kids.

Monday, November 5, 2007

At a Wedding



I went to a wedding the other day--the secretary of our department got married. It was a fun get together with other faculty and students! Here's some pics of me with some colleagues and students. And Salma got dressed up in a sari for the event too! The top photo is of Salma with one of my favorite students, Nadia. The middle photo is of me with some of my students and colleagues. The bottom photo is of me with two colleagues who are close friends--Michelle and Sabahat, and Sabahat's cute son Zarar (who is, by the way, Salma's boyfriend). Ain't I gorgeous in my sari? This is a great sari for showing off my belly-button piercing(tee hee).

Wednesday, October 17, 2007

A great Eid celebration

Eid was on Sunday, and we had a great family celebration! Azfar's sister Rosy and her husband Shafique came down from Rajshahi, and their son Akash (he's in the picture with Azfar above), and Azfar's (6 months pregnant) sister Rumi was there, and of course his brother Dipu and sister in law Urmi, and their kids Jasra and Audry and amma and abba. I bought matching saris for the sisters and I (we're wearing them in the picture below). And I got Salma and Jasra some matching saris too. (Check them out in their saris in the photo below--with belly buttons protruding and all...aren't they cute?)
Salma and Jasra got a bunch of matching outfits as gifts, so we spent half the day dressing them up in their matching outfits and taking photos of them. And we ate lots of food, of course. Everyone breaks their month-long fast on Eid day, so hence the FOOD is a big focus for the day--everyone pigs out! And the food was fabulous. My favorite Eid dish is a dessert called "shemai" which has milk and sweet vermicelli. I ate a bunch of it! Anyway, we spent about a week at amma and abba's house, and we generally had a fun time just spending time together as a family. Now school is open again, and it's back to the grind! (Sigh...)

Monday, October 8, 2007

Ramadan

So we're in the month of Ramadan now, when Muslims fast all day. As Bangladesh is majority Muslim, it's a huge event. The time of breaking the fast is right after the sun sets. The meal that you have for breaking the fast is called "Iftar". There are food vendors that set up shop in the streets all over Dhaka, selling food for Iftar. Most of the Iftar food items aren't available the rest of the year, so they are a special seasonal treat, even for those who aren't fasting. My favorite Iftar item is a sweet called "gulapi" which is basically deep-fried molasses in a pretzel shape. Hot off the fryer, mmm, they are so good! Here's a few photos of some Iftar vendors in Banani bazar. You can see the gulapi that I was talking about in the bottom photo, on the bottom right corner:

Saturday, September 22, 2007

Mukhta's brother died

So I haven't been posting on here for the past few weeks because we had to shift to Azfar's parents house for a while, plus the semester has just started, so it's been a bit hectic. The reason we shifted to their house is that our domestic helper, Mukhta, had a family tragedy and had to go home for a while. Her younger brother died in a car accident. She's got five brothers, but as she has told me, he was the only brother who really cared about her. When I came to see her on the morning she got the news she was crying like I've only seen a few people cry in my life. So she has gone to her village home to be with her family.

Anyway. That means that we are now living for a while in a place that has a PHONE! So that means friends and family can CALL US please! (Is the hint strong enough yet?) Really, we'd love to get some phone calls. We haven't been able to talk to most of our friends in a long time, and we miss you all. It's way more expensive for us to call the US from here, so we'd be better off buying a phone card for some friends to share to call from the US. So. Hope that makes some folks motivated enough to call!

Monday, September 10, 2007

Videos of Salma

I finally figured out how to upload videos online, so if you want to see a few clips of Salma singing songs and being silly, check out my last couple of posts on her blog: allaboutsalma.blogspot.com. That much cuteness should be illegal, I tell you!

Friday, August 31, 2007

Rajshahi Trip

Salma and I made a 5-day trip to Rajshahi last week to visit some of Azfar's family there. On our way there, we could see effects of the flooding. Many of the green fields that I saw by the road on our last trip were either heavily waterlogged or completely underwater. Some of the worst flooded spots stretched for miles--I couldn't see any dry land except for the road we were on. In Rajshahi, Azfar's sister Rosy took us to the Padma River one evening, and we could see how overflowing it was as well. The last time we saw it, it was barely a trickle. This time it was almost overflowing its banks. We enjoyed watched the sunset cascading over the river. We also met a baoul musician (see the last photo) at the riverside (they live rather ascetic lives and their philosophy mixes music and religion). Also, Salma had a great time playing with her cousins Rupunty, Abundy and Nil. The downside of the trip was that it was SO HOT. Rajshahi is famous for its scorching hot summers. On top of that, the electricity was going off all the time. It was so hot at night that it felt like the sheets were burning. So in order to be able to sleep, I had to drench a towel in water and lay on it. Now that's hot! Anyway, that's it for our adventures out of Dhaka for right now. We decided to wait until December to take our trip to Delhi, when there's cooler weather. So for the rest of this break we're just hanging out in Dhaka, trying to catch up on some work and spending some time with our family here.

Wednesday, August 29, 2007

Political turmoil in Bangladesh

For those of our friends and family who have been worried about the political situation in Bangladesh over the past week, I just wanted to let you know what's been going on. Last Wednesday, students at Dhaka University got into a clash with Military personnel which then spread into country-wide clashes between students and police and military. The whole thing started over a very small incident--some students were blocking the view of a few military personnel at a football game, and the military personnel yelled at them and told them to get out of the way. And this led to a scuffle, and then erupted in violence. (The photo above is of a restaurant that students set on fire in Dhanmondi, Dhaka.) Basically, students at Dhaka University have been having to live with the military camping out on campus since the state of emergency was declared in January. So the military has taken over the students' gym, which means they have no place for sports activities. Plus, of course, they are not happy with the constant military presence on campus. So this situation was basically a time-bomb waiting to go off. And once students at other universities heard what was happening, they staged protests. So anyway, last Wednesday the government set in place an indefinite country-wide curfew. It was then lifted on Friday for the daytime, which was lucky for us, because Salma and I were visiting Rajshahi and needed to get back to Dhaka! Anyway, the night curfew continued for several more days and now it's been lifted. So the situation is better now. But the government made some rather alarming moves--for several days, they shut off all mobile phone networks and internet connections. Also, several teachers at Dhaka University and other schools were arrested, and are still being held in undisclosed locations. This is rather alarming as well. But our university was not a part of all of this--it just so happened that our summer vacation started on Monday, and the clashes broke out on Wednesday. Anyway, we're doing fine, and the situation seems to be better now. If you want to read more about what happened, check out the link to this article from The New Age, one of the Bangladesh newspapers: http://www.newagebd.com/2007/aug/23/front.html#1

Wednesday, August 8, 2007

Last day of classes!

Today was our last day of classes for the summer semester. Yay!!!!! I feel really exhausted. I so need a break. We're planning to go to Kolkata, India over break. I'm excited about that. It will be my first trip to India. Azfar's brother Dipu and family are going (Urmi, Jasra, Audry), and Azfar's Amma is also going. This will be her first trip out of Bangladesh, EVER! So stay tuned for more about our adventures in India. (We're heading there on September 1st, and we'll be there for about a week...)

Monday, August 6, 2007

Flooding in Bangladesh

To friends and family back home worried about the news of the flooding, don't worry. We are staying high and dry. But yes, there is severe flooding going in the country, especially in some of the northern districts. And parts of Dhaka near the rivers are getting inundated. Check out this photo taken yesterday--this was taken in South Badda yesterday, a part of Dhaka relatively close to our neighborhood (Banani). Luckily, we are on high ground, and so our area hasn't been flooded. We do live by a lake which has risen significantly, but it hasn't reached the "danger" zone yet. So many people have lost their homes and livelihood due to the flooding. The death toll is going up--from what I've heard, around 40 people died from the flooding last night, and so far around 120 people total have died. The stories of babies and children being whisked away from their mothers in the fast currents are the hardest for me to hear about. If anyone wishes to donate some funds for relief for the flood victims, talk to me and we'll figure out a plan. I know several groups who are working with flood victims and are in desperate need of more funds.

Friday, August 3, 2007

Bye Shonna...

I have sad news...our cat Shonna ran away a couple of nights ago. I think she ran out when the front door was ajar, and went downstairs and out the front gate. We haven't seen her since. We've looked for her all over the neighborhood, but we haven't had any luck. She was such a sweet cat. We're all going to miss her, especially Salma.

Wednesday, July 25, 2007

Salma is two years old now!

Salma's birthday was on July 22. We celebrated her birthday with a huge party--over 50 guests came over to our little apartment! Check out some pictures from the party on Salma's blog. I can't believe she's two already!

Monday, July 16, 2007

Baby Group at our place!



Salma and I have been going to a baby group that meets every Wednesday. All the folks who go are from other countries--the UK, Germany, South Africa, Sweden, Australia, Canada, Belgium, etc. We meet at a different person's house every week. It's been a great way to get to meet new folks in Dhaka and make some friends. This week we had the baby group at our place! Salma was so excited to have all her buddies come and play at our house.

Tuesday, July 10, 2007

At a wedding

Here's Azfar's sister-in-law Urmi and I, all dressed up in saris for a wedding--Dipu's friend's wedding. Urmi let me borrow her jewelry for the wedding. The basic rule for jewelry in Bangladesh is: the bigger it is and the more sparkly it is, the better! I can't say that this is exactly my taste in jewelry, but I don't mind getting decked out every once in a while. I still can't get the hang of a sari, though. It's one huge piece of cloth wrapped around you (and the secret behind holding it together is using lots of safety-pins). I still have no idea how to put one on. I always need help. And I tend to feel like it's going to fall off if I move the wrong way. I'm definitely into the salwar-kamis, though. They're extremely comfortable, and my favorite part is: drawstring pants! I'm don't think I'll ever feel like going back to jeans again.

Monday, July 9, 2007

Do you know this guy?

Azfar was on TV again the other day, giving an interview on the poet P.B. Shelley. Here's the famous man himself!

Thursday, July 5, 2007

The Interfaith group

I've been going to this "Interfaith" group, which is a discussion group composed of people of different religions (such as Muslim, Christian, and Baha'i) and also people who don't necessarily subscribe to any organized religion but are interested in spirituality. Anyway, the group discussions are really interesting. We've discussed all kinds of topics over the past few months, such as what it means to live an examined life, the relationship between science and religion, politics and religion, spirituality and religion, and patriarchy/sexism and religion, the meaning of "equality," and the concept of universal education. As you can see, we've covered quite a lot of ground! Some of the folks in group are leaving Bangladesh, so we took a group photo last week before they left. Anyway, here we are (there are more people in the group, but these are the only ones who showed up that day)!

Sunday, July 1, 2007

Birthday Parties Galore!


We just celebrated two birthdays in a row: Jasra's second birthday was in May, and Audry's tenth birthday was in June. We had fun partyin' and dancin' and eating cake! In fact, that's how I broke my camera--I was dancing and taking pictures at the same time, and somebody ran into me a bit too hard and the camera went flying. Oops! Anyway, there's more birthday fun to come--in about three weeks Salma will celebrate her second birthday...so stay tuned!

Saturday, June 30, 2007

Azfar on TV again

Here's a shot of one of Azfar's TV programs--for this one, he was talking about one of his favorite books. He did this "book of the day" program for a couple of months, in which he discussed one of his favorite books each day of the week. That quickly added up to a lot of books!

Friday, June 29, 2007

Meeting up with Anwar, an old friend

We met up with our old friend Anwar the other day! We went to Washington State University together, and we used to get together with him and his wife Lois to have some real Bengali food. (Anwar is a fabulous cook!) And he made some delicious curry for our wedding dinner. Anyway, he came back to Dhaka last week for his brother's wedding, and he looked us up. Here's a photo we took with him at the wedding. It was so nice to see him after such a long time!

Camera is fixed!

Yay, my camera is finally fixed! So I'll post some more photos of our life here in Bangladesh soon.

Monday, June 11, 2007

And Yet More Crazy Rain

Ok, so yesterday Dhaka got 4 inches of rain in 6 hours. It was insane. I borrowed this photo from the Daily Star website. This is on Mirpur Road, which is on the way to Azfar's parents' house. This is the same spot we had to drive through on Thursday night when we were trying to get to their house--it was flooded then too. Yesterday, alot of the streets in Dhaka looked more like canals than streets. In front of our apartment, there was at least two feet of water in the road, and we watched cars trying to plow through and getting their engines flooded. I didn't feel brave enough to go through the flooded street to class, so I cancelled my classes yesterday. The thing is that when the street is flooded, you can't see where the potholes are! Many of the streets have huge uncovered potholes and it would really suck if your rickshaw hit one or if you fell into one. So I decided not to chance it. Anyway, there's a cyclone storm over the Bay of Bengal that caused the heavy rain. We're supposed to get more rain like this for the next few days. Today it rained pretty hard, but not like yesterday. The streets are clear again now. Let's see what tomorrow brings...

Saturday, June 9, 2007

Monsoon rain and flooded streets


The other day we had some crazy monsoon rain in Dhaka. The streets were flooded. We happened to have quite a dramatic experience this time, because we were trying to get home while the streets were flooded. Our friend was giving us a ride home. There was at least 3 feet of water in the road. And the water started coming into the car--we had about 5 inches of water seeping into the car under our feet! It was quite a scary experience. I was amazed that the engine didn't flood and the car didn't die because at times it felt like we were literally floating down the street instead of driving. Many of the cars around us were dying and the poor drivers were trying to push them out of the street in the massive flood. And when busses went by, they created waves that would wash up against the car. It was like nothing I've ever seen before, although I know flooding like this happens on a regular basis in Bangladesh. Anyway, since my camera has broken, I borrowed a few images of the flooded streets from some other websites. By now the water has gone down and the streets are clear again, but we're supposed to have monsoon rains for the next 5 days, so they may get flooded again.

Wednesday, May 30, 2007

It's HOT!!!!!!

Just a quick update from this part of the world...our camera has broken, unfortunately, so there will be a bit of a break in sending pictures until I can get it fixed. Anyway, the summer semester has started, so Azfar and I are back into the swing of classes. I'm teaching research writing and "business and professional speaking." I'm not exactly thrilled about teaching such a business-oriented course, but I'm trying to move beyond the traditional parameters of such a class and encourage students to think critically about how education has been increasingly turned into a business. It's particularly clear in the private universities in Bangladesh that education is a business--it's all about how fast you can get your degree so you can go out and make alot of money. So much for the concept of critical education. (Sigh.) Anyway, Azfar is teaching creative writing, a course called "the Experience of literature," and a graduate seminar on contemporary literary theory. He is also still writing every week for the New Age newspaper. You can read one of his recent articles at this link: http://www.newagebd.com/2007/apr/27/liti.html. Other than that, the other exciting news is that we recently joined the American Club, which is quite close to our house (we can just take a 10-minute rickshaw ride to get there). The most exciting aspect of this is that the club has A POOL, which is a relief to have in this sweltering heat. So Salma and I frequent the club quite often to cool down. As the weather has been heating up, the electricity is getting cut more and more often. It's basically an inverse proportion: if the weather is cool, we don't get the electricity cut. And when it's hot, the electricity gets cut all the time--at least 3 or 4 times a day. So that's really frustrating, not only because it's HOT, but it's also hard to get anything done on the computer, etc. Anyway, enough griping. Generally, we're all doing fine. Salma will be two years old in a couple of months, which I can't believe! We just celebrated Jasra's (her cousin) second birthday the other day, which was alot of fun. More soon...

Tuesday, May 22, 2007

Paan leaves

Here's a photo of some paan leaves that had just been harvested, that we came across on our tour of Srimangal. Paan is something people lots of people here chew. It's a big cash crop. It gets combined with some white paste stuff and bits of betel nut, and then you chew it all together. I've tried it, but I'm not a big fan. It makes my tongue go numb. There's some kind of drug quality in the leaves and nuts. Lots of people are addicted to it in Bangladesh, and have all kinds of dental problems as a result.

Sunday, May 20, 2007

A favorite poem

In the midst of scrambling to get ready for the next semester, I read this poem this morning by one of my favorite poets, the Native American poet Joy Harjo. It was like a breath of fresh air. We make our lives so hectic sometimes with plans and activity, that sometimes we forget to experience the miracle of living each day. Anyway, I thought I would share the poem:

ceremony

When considering ceremony the act of preparation is most crucial. Each day is a ceremonial progression in which every human takes part. We do so either consciously or unconsciously. You can prepare by setting the alarm clock and jumping into the world with anxiety, or you can still set the alarm clock, but take time to prepare for the day, by singing, by prayer, by a small acknowledgement of the gift of the day itself.

It has a spirit, this creature called day, and will go on without us, dragging us behind it. Or, we can take part in the ceremony and walk (or run!) with grace into the momentum. For the Mayan this is a science, this naming of the spirits of each day, and by knowing the characteristics of the spirit of each day one can understand the manner in which events will unfold. There’s an overall pattern in this calendar that can be examined and if we follow its logical trail we will arrive at the end of the spiral in the memory field of the Milky Way. All this meaning, we can walk or run blindly through the ceremony of our life, a tricky obstacle course no matter the cultural reference points, or incorporate knowledge that will give this journey a heightened sense of meaning, of beauty, despite the terrible complexities and apparent injustices.

[…]

Maybe the spirits of the days live in the world above the earth we call dawn and stand reverently as the sun arrives in the appointed place in the east. Flowers, plants, all creatures prepare for the sun’s arrival. You can hear the rustle of anticipation as the ultramarine sky turns to a cobalt grey. Deer move towards water to drink. Birds chatter plans for the day. In the distance a few humans begin running towards the east to give the sun encouragement, to make sure the sun returns to bless them.

It’s crucial we participate for the sun needs our songs, prayers, acknowledgements. Too often the weight of humans has been carried by others who have not lost their original instructions on how to live with integrity in this system.

----------------------
From Joy Harjo’s A Map to the Next World. New York: Norton, 2000. Page 58.

Slums Destroyed



As part of their crack-down on "corruption," the interim government has been tearing down the slum housing of the poor, leaving them with no alternative housing plans. These are photos of the rubble left behind after the military came in the night to tear down the poor people's homes right down the street from our apartment. Now they are all homeless, wandering in the streets to find somewhere to sleep at night. I have no idea how this has helped reduce corruption. If anything else, it will increase violence in the streets as the poor get more desperate.

Saturday, May 19, 2007

Jackfruit, a most amazing fruit

Jackfruit is the national fruit of Bangladesh. There were a bunch of jackfruit trees right outside our bungalow in Srimongol, so I took a few pictures. Jackfruit is a very interesting fruit. It can range from the size of a grapefruit to a watermelon. They grow right off the trunk of the tree. The shell is very hard and spiky. Inside, it has sections kind of like an orange. The texture is unlike anything I've tasted before. The closest I can get to describing it is that it is a cross between a banana and a mango, with a bit of extra slime. I can't say that I'm a big fan of jackfruit, but it is quite an interesting taste. Given the choice between that and mango, I'd definitely go for the mango.